Climbing Weissmies (4023 m) is hard regardless of which of the two normal routes you take. For both routes, the reason is the altitude, of course, and for the north route, you have a huge glacier in addition to that.
Weissmies is a beautiful mountain in the Pennine Alps, a mountain range that contains more than 30 peaks over 4000 meters, with the highest peak Dufourspitze (4634 m). Those are mountains that roughly divide the Wallis region in Switzerland and Italian provinces Piedmont and Aosta.
From a geological perspective, this could be understood as a border between the European and African continental plates, with the Italian peninsula moving northward for about 1 cm per year, creating the Alps in the process. Within this page, I provide some essential information about Weissmies and about one climbing route (from the south side).
Here is an interactive zoomable map so you can see access roads and also the details of the route:
Normal routes to Weismiess
There are two main climbing routes to the summit, the northwest approach (with the starting point in Saas Grund), and the southeast one with the starting points either in Saas Almagell which I followed or in Zwischbergen.
The northwest route is a typical glacier approach through huge crevasses and everything that comes with it. I did not climb from that side, though I was inspecting it from a close distance while I was climbing the nearby Lagginhorn mountain (4010 m) a few days earlier.
See how it looks from that side, this is from my tour to Fletschhorn:
The approach from the southeast is mostly snow-free in the summertime up to about 3940 m, and it is without any cable car lines.
The lower part of the route from Saas Almagell village is through a pleasant pine forest, and it passes the Almagelleralp hotel at around 2200 m of elevation. After passing it, you should follow the signs towards the Almageller hut (at 2894 m), see the picture below. From the village to the hut you will need about 3.5 hours.
The route continues towards the Zwischbergen pass (3268 m), the top picture above shows the view from the pass towards the summit. Below you can see the Italian side under clouds:
From the pass the route turns towards the north either along the snow-free rocky ridge or along the slope that is usually covered with snow in the summertime, see the pictures below.
The ridge route is all visible here, and the summit is behind on the left:
At around 3950 m, you will be again on snow and the direction is obvious, towards the north-east with the summit in sight all the time.
Along this route, the mountain can be climbed directly from the village in around 8 hours. Sleeping at the Almageller hut is a good alternative, it is a pleasant place with running water in the toilet. I have seen some people camp in the rock below the Zwischbergen pass on its west side.
From the east side, the route starts at the Zwischbergen village and joins the above-described route at the Zwischbergen pass. This is considerably longer and also a snow-free approach in the summertime.
About the necessary equipment
Regarding the southeast route, you will be on the snow only above some 3900 m when the route is not steep and one could manage even without crampons, however, I would not go without them.
| Recommended | Essential |
|
Note, the type of boots depends on the type of crampons, read more in my separate text.
I used the following map: Matterhorn Mischabel 5006, 1:50000, Swisstopo.
My climb
My ascent to Weissmies (4023 m) is one of the most memorable I have done. This is partly because I did it in a rather hard way, i.e., directly from the village Saas Almagell (1670 m), without staying the night in the Almageller hut what normal people normally do.
So I climbed the height difference of around 2340 meters in 8 hours, and then went back the same way. This was an overnight climb, without sleeping.
I was staying in Siviez, which is rather far from the place, so I set off around midnight and after a long drive I started from Saas Almagell at 2:30 AM, and I passed Almageller hut at around 6.
Soon after that, I spotted a few parties in the distance already at Zwischbergenpass (3250 m) where I arrived on 7:30 AM. Then mainly up the southeast face, I was on the top shortly after 10 AM.
This was a night with a full moon, so once above the woods, I did not use a torch at all. I became sleepy and tired. But the slopes of the Mischabel mountains on the other side of the Saas valley, more than 10 kilometers away, were in shadow.
And at one moment I noticed somebody’s light there in the distance; one single head-torch changing position and direction all the time. Somebody was climbing one of the Mischabel-range peaks.
So suddenly I did not feel alone, and I even started watching from time to time across the valley following the progress of that unknown person, as if we were partners in climbing. In a way, we were indeed.
As the dawn was coming, the torch across the valley eventually disappeared. But the presence of my unknown ‘partner’ stayed in my mind, and it made my climb easier.
Later, at some point close to the summit I passed two roped climbers. One of them told me: “I do not remember you from the hut last night.”
I said I was not there, and that I was coming from the valley. Then he replied:
“Everybody comes from the valley, but where did you sleep?”
I replied I didn’t, and this made him laughing.
“Did you hear what he said?” And they both started laughing. I was not in a mood to convince them and just continued. Those were some of the moments when one feels better to be alone in the mountains.
This route is perfect for a solo climbing, and for me only the final summit ridge looked a bit scary as I was sleepy and a bit dizzy. I used crampons on the upper part close to the summit.
It was tempting to traverse the mountains and to descend along the ‘normal’ northwest route towards Hoohsaas, but being solo, I decided to get back the same way. The north side route goes over numerous crevasses.
I had some issues with my camera, better to say with batteries, so I was able to have only one photos on the summit, really pity. Here it is, I asked a person from the group that came from the north side, on the right you can see Lagginhorn which I climbed later:
A few useful tips for those who would climb directly from the valley. At night it may be complicated to find the starting point in Saas Almagell. Try first to locate the church, when you pass it, behind it there is a sign and you should take direction left following the so-called Almagell rundweg, along a tiny water stream. After that just follow the signs.
Also take care above the Almageller Alp hotel, some 40 minutes after you pass it, at around 2400 m the route splits, so take the one that goes to the left. I missed it and continued in the wrong direction.
Once you are at Zwischbergen pass, it is best to switch to the ridge immediately. At this point, the southeast face looks so smooth and inviting and this attracted me to walk that way. But there may be falling stones if it is a busy day with many people on the ridge which will be above you. In fact the higher you go along the south face slope, the more complicated it becomes to switch to the ridge, and the ridge is the only final option in any case.
Accommodation
Regarding accommodation, I myself have been renting apartments through Booking.com. They have plenty of options with fully equipped apartments, houses, and hotels. Did you know that they have a loyalty program? You can save a lot when you make reservations through them several times.
Here is a YouTube video that shows ascent from the south side (this is the route I also climbed) and descent along the north, glacier side.
I hope you enjoyed the text, and I also hope you will be careful when/if you decide to go there. What I describe here was my second attempt, on my first I had to give up because of bad weather conditions. So you see, the mountain was still there. It will wait for you too.
If you are in the area and want to play it safe and hire a guide, please follow this link, they will find you somebody from the local area who will take you safely to the summit.
Please share it on your favorite social media. Anything related to equipment you can find in my separate page with equipment reviews.
Dario says
Hi Jovo I did the climb on Tuesday 30th of August and was absolutely great! I left my small village in Italy at 1am and I drove till Saas Almagell in two hours. I left the car park at 3,05 roughly and I was on top of the Weissmies at 9,16. It has been one of the greatest experience of my alpine life. I want to say thank you for your report that has been very helpful. I was looking for some light on the mountains of the opposite side to have the same feeling you had and it worked when I saw some climbers. If you are coming to Ossola valley in northern Italy give me a shout!
Jovo says
Hi Dario, you made my day with this, brought me to tears, that is how great memories I have from that climb. It was a long drive for you, I know the Ossola valley, and you did it overnight, what an experience! Thank you man.
Peca Ahmetspahic says
Hej Jovo
Thanx for the good info and advice. I climbed Weissmies solo in july. Very beautiful area. It was awesome acclimatization for the Matterhorn which i climbed a week later.
Thanx for the great site
Jovo says
Hi Peca, great to hear this. Would you write something about the Matterhorn climb? I have an open invitation for guest authors, and myself have not climbed Matterhorn yet and this would be a valuable first-hand information. I am in the Slovenian Alps right now, climbed Jalovec yesterday and have a heavy rain today so taking a break.
management link says
It seems that you have got an extensive climbing experience! Hopefully, you will share more interesting stories about your unforgettable adventures!
Jovo says
Thank you, I am adding my texts from various climbs, so stay tuned. If you have something to share, I have an open invitation for guest authors.
Peca Ahmetspahic says
HI. Thanks for the great description. I am thinking of climbing solo this summer, both ascent and descent from the south. How scary/tricky was the final summit ridge? (I am goint to do it over several days in preparation for Matterhorn)
Thanks for the respond in advance
Jovo says
Hi, this will depend on the snow condition at the moment of the climb. It is not tricky but for me it was a bit scary because I felt dizzy due to the sleepless night before. The summit cornice changes all the time so it is hard to know how it will look when you get there. Such structures are shaped by winds and can be sharp, they change all the time. My guess is it would be doable even without crampons because it is not steep, but better have them. You will manage it, just be careful.
If you have the desire, please submit some story to the site, I have an open invitation for guest authors, the only conditions are that this is a first-hand experience and original.
Farooz Babar says
Say I have never climbed a mountain before but i want to make this my first one. coming from the US alone, would you recommend it?
Jovo says
No I would not, but this is not because it is particularly difficult in the technical sense. I suggest that you try something easier first, to see how your body reacts to altitude, to acclimatize, to see how/if you enjoy the activity. This is a very hard physical activity and there is no way to prepare yourself but to try it. Altitude sickness is unpredictable and can affect you even if you are in top physical conditions.
So try Barrhorn instead, or Platthorn. There are many high mountains around which are just walk up. Then you will know.
Boniface says
Hi Jovo,
That was quite daring to climb Weissmies all alone after a long drive and having to nt sleep at all in the night. Even with the unknown team mate guy with a torch in the distance, I must admit that that was so brave to climb and beat all odds. Thanks for that. It’s an encouraging adventure.
Jovo says
Thank you Boniface, it is great to read your comment. Climbing Weissmies was a great experience for me.
Kat says
Hi, the way you talk about night scenery and buddy with a torch gave me chills. I love mountains and I spend a good deal of summer in the Alps with my father. I haven’t been on the Weissmies yet, but it sounds like a climb my father would be up to. Thanks for the orientation tips!
Jovo says
You are most welcome Kat. I am not able to express myself in English, not my native, but I feel the same always when I think about that light across the valley. You understood it. Thank you for that.
casey says
The first picture of the mountains draws me in. Lots of info, I like how you share your real world experiences. I can tell you know a lot about your niche. You have so much nice pictures looks like some of your own pictures as well. I think it is informative and looks great.
Jovo says
Thank you Casey, I write about mountains I climbed myself, that is all first-hand experience, no more no less. All photos are my own.
Titus says
Wow this sounds awesome! Looks like a killer place. Makes me want to get out of the house. I stay at home with my twin 3 year olds so I am trying to find some easy hikes for these guys at the moment. I can’t wait to actually take them backpacking and climbing. Sweet map in your post. I love studying maps. Thank you!
Jovo says
Hi Titus, thank you for the comment. I guess you will have to wait for a while with your twins, but mountain is there, it will wait.
Benjamin says
That’s an incredible story of how you made the climb on Mount Weissmies. I’m so impressed…I don’t think I could have done it, especially without having taken a night’s rest. I love my sleep!
I would love to hear more about what got you to first make your climb, and like Aleric said, what equipment you took to accomplish it.
Jovo says
Hi Benjamin, thank you for the comment. I love my sleep too, but once in mountains, adrenaline works. As for the question, I do not know what got me to make my first climb. I had it always in me, mountains have been something magical for me as far as I remember. Only there I feel complete.
PapaDave says
Hey, Jovo! What a great adventure! I was never one to take on such challenges, always preferring to keep my potential falling distances well with the limits of no broken bones. The only way I have ever been that high was in a skyscraper elevator and even then my nose started to bleed, lol. Reading your post almost makes me wish I was 40 years younger and in great shape! I might mention I have music on one of my websites and there are ways to have it start automatically; mine starts within 8 seconds of someone landing on the page. All the best to you! Papa Dave
Jovo says
Hi PapaDave. Thank you for the comment. As for the music, this is how I want it, to let visitors start it if they want and not to have it imposed by me.
Doc says
Mighty useful. Make no mistake, I appreciate it.
Jovo says
Hi Doc, great if you find it useful, that was the idea. Good luck. Jovo
Aleric says
Thank you for sharing this excellent article on your climb up Weissmies! I love the images you shared and it really looks like you had a great journey up the mountain!
I would love for you to provide an additional checklist on all of the gear you used to climb the mountain!
Jovo says
Hi Aleric, thank you for visiting my site. As for your request, the only special part of equipment for this mountain are crampons. This implies the corresponding shoes as well. The rest is the usual what you would have on any mountain, rucksack, waterproof clothes, geiters. I always have walking poles as well.
Aleric says
Thanks so much for the help!
Jovo says
You are most welcome Aleric.
Diana Karp says
i love this page! And it’s so clever that your first image was an audio of classical music. Very clever. I like the way you spelled things out in detail, but also broke it up with very relevant photos and videos and map images. These images accompanied the content and for any reader drawn into your text, these images provide a nice “add on” to the entire reading experience. well done!
Yours, Diana
Jovo says
Hi Diana, great to read your comment and thanks for kind words. I like classical music so this was an obvious choice to make. The rest is also part of my passion.
Jordan says
Fantastic site! I got a good kick out of this article – very glad to find someone has gotten all this information together and placed in an easily read format… I have yet to make it to Europe to do any mountain climbing, but I am an avid climber here in the U.S. (mainly climbing in the Colorado Rocky Mountains).
Do you plan on exploring this area any time soon? Whether in person or in review?
Thanks again!
Jovo says
Hi Jordan, thanks for kind words. I have not had a chance to try myself in your environment in USA. As for the question, yes I hope I shall be in the Alps in August.
Martin says
Thank you for the great write up on Weissmies. It’s very helpful. I’m hoping to visit this summit in a few weeks time. I have Almagellar hut booked however I admire your hardcore approach to going direct from the valley. Well done.
Martin
Jovo says
Hi Martin, great to read your lines. I wish you perfect weather, like what I had in my second attempt described in the site. It would be great to hear about your experience, put a few lines in the comment box when you come safely back. Best luck. Jovo