There are two normal routes to Punta Fanes Sud and both of them are a part of the same hard ferrata that traverses the mountain. I passed both routes, and here is my report.
The normal way to climb Punta Fanes Sud is to walk from Falzarego pass to Forcella Travenanzes and then to Forcella Granda from where the actual Tomaselli ferrata climb starts. The ferrata traverses the whole mountain, and most of people approach it from the west side to get to the summit, and use the east part as a descent route.
The ferrata is very hard but the approach route is an easy and moderately long walk. You can make the approach even easier by taking the lift from Falzarego pass to Lagazuoi hut.
Cima Fanes Sud coordinates, numbers & details
- Elevation: 2980 m (9777 ft).
- Nearest places for supplies: Cortina d’Ampezzo and San Cassiano.
- Mountain group: Dolomites, Italian Alps.
- Coordinates: 46.52793 N; 12.01527 E.
- Route difficulty: hard ferrata.
- Cables length on the west side: around 326 m.
- Elevation difference from the car parking: 875 m (2871 ft).
- Parking coordinates: 46.5183572 N, 12.0097111 E.
- Time needed from the road to the summit: up to 4 hours.
- Useful map: Cortina d’Ampezzo e Dolomiti Ampezzane, Tabacco, 03, 1:25000.
About the name
In various sources you will see the mountain named Punta Fanes Sud, Cima Fanes Sud, Piza Fanes Sud, Punta Sud di Fanes, and Südliche Fanisspitze.
So just to know, that this is the same peak, and the variety of names is the result of different languages used in the area in the past and in the present time.
Access roads and map
Below you have an interactive and zoomable map which shows the parking area (number 1), Forcella Travenanzes (marker 2), start of the Tomaselli ferrata (marker 3), and the summit (marker 4).
You can see lots of details if you zoom in, and when you zoom out you will see access roads and cities around.
Route description
From Falzarego pass to the ferrata start
There is plenty of options to park the car for free at Falzarego pass, but the place is extremely popular, bear this in mind. From the pass, the route is obvious in the north-east direction towards Forcella Travenanzes (2507 m).
Below is a view back when you are close to the mentioned Forcella. You can see Marmolada in the distance.
When you get to Forcella Travenanzes, follow a flat path to the north in the direction of Forcella Gasser Depot. There are plenty of fortifications around from the WW1, Lagazuoi area is famous for this reason.
On the next stage the route goes slightly up till you get to Forcella Granda (2653 m) from where you will, for the first time, see the Cima Fanes Sud west side wall which you have to climb. The ferrata Cesco Tomaselli goes directly up.
From Forcella Granda you will have views also towards the nearby Lagazuoi area, this is how it looks:
At this place your easy walk ends, and you have to put all your climbing equipment on. If the wall above you is too intimidating, you can keep walking in the direction of Lagazuoi and make a round tour back through an incredibly beautiful environment.
But if you continue up, you will get to this table that marks the start of the Cesco Tomaselli west side ferrata:
Ferrata Tomaselli ascent route
The ferrata is hard from the very beginning where you have a vertical wall and diagonal and horizontal passages. You will immediately experience lots of stress on your arms. The photos below show some parts of it:
At some places here the rock is of a poor quality and it is not good to be there too long when the place is crowded. The photo below shows how this may look, there are two people behind me, and Forcella Granda is far below.
After this first shock to your body and a few more cables, there is an easy part over ledges where you can take a rest and regain your strength:
From here you have perfect views of the access route and the Tofana group, the photos below:
But what comes next is perhaps even more hard than the beginning of the ferrata. At this time you are already tired and might question your decision to come here:
It is very steep, but the rock here is of the best quality, all this you can realize from these photos:
It is very hard indeed, but when you get to the top summit ridge with the views that it offers, you will forget everything.
Ferrata Tomaselli rating
Various ferrata ratings exist, and here are some of them that I found online:
- Italian grading: 5.
- French grading: D+.
- Fletcher/Smith grading: 5C.
For the first Italian rating 5, the meaning is: Very difficult, highly technical, exposed, and physically demanding; requires advanced skills and strength.
For the French grading, D is from the general range F, PD, AD, D, TD, ED, ED+, and its meaning is: Difficult, very steep, exposed, requires strength and ferrata experience.
For the third Fletcher/Smith grading, the meaning is as follows. The number 5 is from the range 1-5, and its meaning is: Very difficult, highly technical, often near-vertical or overhanging. The letter C is from the range A, B, C, and it means: High exposure, very committing, potentially dangerous without proper skills. This would mean it is the hardest possible.
I strongly disagree with the D+ from the French rating, it makes the ferrata of a medium dificulty which makes no sense.
But these ratings mean nonthing unless you have experience, and until you compare this ferrata with some other ferratas in the Dolomites. So here is what you need to know to understand its difficulty better.
The ascent ferrata is more than 300 meters long. Already from the beginning it is very hard, the middle section is with some walk-up passages, and the final part is the hardest.
Exposure is almost maximum, and this means that some passages are nearly vertical, with smooth rock wall on some places without foothold, and this implies lots of stress on your arms and hands. I know for sure that ferrata Tomaselli is much harder than ferrata Possneker, I climbed them borth.
My own rating based on three essential criteria is as follows, assuming that you walk all the way from the car parking:
| Rating Criteria | Rating (A-E; 1-5) |
|---|---|
| Technical difficulty | E |
| Ferrata length | 4 |
| Access route difficulty | C |
| Overall Score | E4C |
Note that the only partly subjective criterion here is the technical difficulty, but this is the same with all the grading systems that are currently in use. My technical difficulty rating takes into account exposure, foot support, and arms stress.
My other two criteria follow exact scales applied consistently, so you can easily compare various ferratas.
Ferrata Tomaselli descent route
This part of the ferrata is a bit easier, I rate it C. But it is all in cables, not sure how many and what the total length is. Here are a few details from that side:
When cables end, you still have to descend a very steep and hard scree couloir before you get to the access route below Forcella Granda.
Please see more in my video:
My tour to Cima Fanes Sud
I started from Falzarego pass at 8:10 am, and I was at the ferrata start at 10:40 am, so the access route is moderately long, you need two and a half hours.
There was nobody when I arrived there, and I put my equipment and started climbing immediately. At 12:05 I was on the summit, so this makes it almost four hours from the road.
On the ferrata, two people passed me, so most likely I was slow, just to know if you plan your timing. But those two men came from Lagazuoi, so they used the lift and clearly they were less tired than me.
I stayed very long on the summit, the weather was simply perfect. After that, I descended down the east side of the mountain and then continued the same way back to the parking.
Ferrata Tomaselli gear guide
For this climb you need a full ferrata set, and this means a harness, Y-rope, and helmet. Do not even think of going without these items in the backpack.
I used Mammut Sapuen GTX boots, a pair of trekking poles, and my Mammut Lithium 40 backpack. Gloves for cables are necessary and I used them. In the backpack, as usual, I had a rain poncho and rain pants, plus a rain jacket.
There are no water streams around, so carry your water in the pack. Note that there is a water source very close to the parking, you will see it when you start walking up, it is behind the lift station at the pass.
A bit more on how to climb Ferrata Tomaselli safely
Climbing the Via Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli, demands meticulous preparation, proper equipment, and unwavering focus to ensure safety amid its vertical walls, overhanging traverses, and athletic passages. Begin by assessing your fitness, experience, and head for heights.
This ferrata requires climbing skills, so consider hiring a certified mountain guide, especially for novices, to provide extra belay support and route expertise.
As mentioned above, essential gear includes a certified via ferrata kit with shock-absorbing lanyards, two locking carabiners oriented oppositely for smooth clipping, a full-body harness, helmet, sturdy approach shoes with good grip, and gloves for cable handling.
Always inspect all equipment for wear before starting. Approach early from Passo Falzarego via cable car to Rifugio Lagazuoi to beat crowds and afternoon thunderstorms, which can turn the route deadly due to lightning risks or slippery rocks; check forecasts and avoid if unstable weather looms.
During ascent, clip both carabiners ahead of your hands at all times, swapping them one-by-one at anchors without ever fully detaching, and employ the “third carabiner” technique with a short sling on strenuous overhangs to rest without dangling. Never take selfies or lose concentration on exposed ledges.
Climb within your limits, using natural holds efficiently, and descend via the equipped path with equal caution, prioritizing the golden rule: prevent falls through steady progress rather than relying on the kit’s forgiveness.
Final thoughts
In summary, climbing Punta Fanes Sud via Ferrata Tomaselli is a demanding but rewarding challenge in the Dolomites. The ascent, with its steep, exposed passages and high technical difficulty, tests both physical strength and mental focus.
The route’s 326 meters of ascent cables, combined with near-vertical walls and loose rock in sections, make it one of the tougher ferratas in the region, far surpassing routes like Ferrata Pössneker.
The stunning summit ridge, however, offers breathtaking views that erase the strain of the climb, making the effort worthwhile for those prepared for its intensity.
The descent, while slightly easier, remains a serious undertaking with its own steep challenges and a scree-filled couloir. Proper equipment, full ferrata set, helmet, gloves, and reliable boots, is non-negotiable, as is carrying enough water due to the lack of streams.
With a moderately long approach from Falzarego Pass and a total time of about four hours to the summit, this route demands respect and preparation. For experienced climbers seeking a tough but scenic adventure, Ferrata Tomaselli delivers an unforgettable test of skill and endurance.
Thank you for reading. Let me know if you have questions or comments, there is a comment section below. Please join us at our Facebook group Dolomites Visitors Hub.
FAQs
What is the best time of year to climb Ferrata Tomaselli?
The optimal time to climb Ferrata Tomaselli is from late June to early September, when the Dolomites typically have stable weather and minimal snow on the route. July and August offer the warmest conditions, but early September can be quieter with fewer climbers. Always check local weather forecasts, as sudden storms can make the exposed sections dangerous.
Are there any guided tours available for Ferrata Tomaselli?
Yes, guided tours are available through local alpine schools and certified mountain guides in Cortina d’Ampezzo or San Cassiano. These tours provide expert navigation, safety instruction, and equipment rental if needed. Booking a guide is recommended for less experienced climbers due to the ferrata’s high difficulty and exposure.
What physical preparation is needed for Ferrata Tomaselli?
Climbers should have strong upper body strength, good endurance, and prior ferrata experience. Training with pull-ups, grip exercises, and cardio like hiking or stair climbing is ideal. Familiarity with vertical terrain and exposure is crucial, as the route includes long, steep sections that demand sustained effort.
Is Ferrata Tomaselli for beginners?
Ferrata Tomaselli is not suitable for beginners due to its very difficult rating. The vertical walls, high exposure, and physical demands require climbing skills and confidence on exposed terrain. Beginners should start with much easier ferratas in the Dolomites before attempting this route.
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