All normal climbing routes to Tofana di Mezzo are ferratas, and some are very hard, but ferrata Lamon is an easy one. I climbed it myself and it is described here in detail.
Assuming that you do not plan using the lift, you can get to Tofana di Mezzo summit from at least three sides by climbing one of its ferratas.
Ferrata Lamon is the easiest but it implies getting to the summit of Tofana di Dentro first. This makes it a very long and demanding tour. You are above 3000 meters of elevation all the time. However, you will have two summits on a single day, plus an incredible WWI bivouac will be on your way up.
Coordinates, numbers & details
- Tofana di Mezzo elevation: 3244 m (10643 ft).
- Tofana di Mezzo coordinates: 46.5509397 N, 12.0654706 E.
- Route difficulty: moderate ferrata.
- Useful map: Tabacco number 03, Cortina d’Ampezzo e Dolomiti Ampezzane. 1:25000.
- Free parking for this tour: at Pie Tofana (1650 m; 5413 ft).
- Start of the ferrata: the summit of Tofana di Dentro.
- Total time for the ferrata tour: around 80 minutes.
- The lowest point: Forcella Tofana 3084 m (10118 ft).
- Total time from car parking: 6-7 hours.
[Atahualpa Yupanqui: La Estancia Vieja]
Access roads & location
Tofana di Mezzo is the highest in the group of three Tofana peaks that raise above Cortina d’Ampezzo on the west side. This is the only peak in the group with a cable lift system, so many people use it to get directly from the city to the top. As you can imagine, this makes the summit a rather crowded place.
The interactive map below shows all the details you you may need. The start of the ferrata Lamon described here in the text is the marker 1, and the end is the marker 3. The lowest point on the ferrata (Forcella Tofana) is the marker 2. The marker 4 shows the position of free car parking.
You can zoom in to see more details, and zoom out to see all the access roads to the area. If you do not know this part of Dolomites, then it is important to remember that your destination should be Cortina d’Ampezzo.
From Tofana di Dentro to Forcella Tofana
So the start of this ferrata is at the summit of Tofana di Dentro. But clearly, you have first to get there, and this is a long walk from the car parking. All the information you will find in my separate text about Tofana di Dentro.
The ferrata start point is close to the summit, on its south side. You will see some caves built for WW1 so keep descending from there. Already from the beginning, the route is steep, the picture below shows how dramatic it looks with clouds around.
There are a few harder passages and this is in particular so when you approach the lower area on the route. The picture below shows one of them.
The most exposed sections are in that lower area around Forcella Tofana. Below you have view back, but this is not the view of the Tofana di Dentro summit, it is somewhere behind.
When you are on the lowest part of the route, you will have the lake on your right side which is in the west direction. It is under ice almost all the time, the photo below was taken in the last weak of July.
If you look closely, you will see the path above the lake, so this is the descent options from both Tofana di Dentro and Tofana di Mezzo.
When you go that way, you will arrive at Giussani hut. Bear in mind that there is an extremely steep couloir above the hut, with very unstable gravel and with snow till August.
From Forcella Tofana to Tofana di Mezzo
Once you pass Forcella Tofana, you are on an easier part of the route. The picture below shows it all the way up to Tofana di Mezzo.
Cables are in place most of the time, and here below you can see one typical passage. As a ferrata, this is technically a very easy walk up, but at a high elevation, bear this in mind.
Rock layers are simply incredible, I have never seen anything similar. They look like folded blankets, see the picture:
Below is my yet another view back to Tofana di Dentro. On the right you can see also materials from WW1 trenches and fortifications.
Very soon your route joins the path that comes from the lift station. This is now directly under the summit where you arrive in a few minutes. Below you see my view of Tofana di Rozes from the summit.
How to descend Tofana di Mezzo
I already mentioned the descent route by the lake, towards rifugio Giussani.
But if this is too much for you, take the lift down to Ra Vales station and walk the rest to the car. You can even continue to Col Druscie and from there you can walk to the car parking at Pie Tofana.
Of course, if you feel strong enough, you can descend by following the ferrata Aglio and ferrata Olivieri, and then take another lift down to Pie Tofana. All these options are visible in the map given above.
My climb
This was a part of a long tour for me, I walked from the car parking at Pie Tofana and climbed Tofana di Dentro. From there I continued to Tofana di Mezzo.
It took me around 6 hours and 50 minutes for the complete tour, and this includes a long rest at bivouac Baracca degli Alpini and also on the summit of Tofana di Dentro where I had my late breakfast. Around 1 hour and 20 minutes of this time was on the ferrata Lamon described here.
As you realize from the pictures, I did not have a clear sky, and views were limited due to clouds. But the weather remained stable, and the clouds made the whole atmosphere more exciting and dramatic.
The first part you can see in my previous text, and there is a video there as well. The ferrata Lamon part is in the following video:
My rating of the ferrata Lamon
Ferrata Lamon has two very different parts:
1. The first part between Tofana di Dentro and Forcella Tofana is much harder but all in all I would describe it as very moderate.
Here you descend around 154 meters of elevation difference, it may not look much but there are exposed passages, see the picture below. My technical difficulty rating here is 5/10.
2. The second part between Forcella Tofana and Tofana di Mezzo summit is technically very easy, you practically do not have to attach yourself to the cables.
But note that this is a climb up, you have around 160 meters of elevation difference to the summit, and this makes it a bit hard. There is lots of unstable rock and gravel on the route. For this part my technical difficulty rating is 1/10.
Below you can see how I rate the ferrata by using my usual 8 rating criteria:
| Rating Criteria | Rating (1-10) |
|---|---|
| Scenic Beauty | 8 |
| Difficulty* | 5 |
| Route Condition | 9 |
| Accessibility | 2 |
| Crowd Levels** | 9 |
| Historical Interest | 6 |
| Support Facilities | 7 |
| Weather Risks and Protection | 9 |
| Overall Score | 55/80 |
*The bigger the number the heavier ferrata.
**The bigger the number the less crowded ferrata.
For Accessibility, my rating is low because you will need many hours to start the ferrata from the summit of Tofana di Dentro. All the details are given in my another text so just follow the link.
Regarding Weather Risks and Protection, I give a high rating and this is because of the following:
- Before getting to Tofana di Dentro you have Bivacco Barraca degli Alpini where you can find a shelter and even spend the night.
- On the other hand, directly on the summit of Tofana di Dentro there are man-made caves and tunnels from WW1, so in the case of storm you have places to hide.
- When you get to the summit of Tofana di Mezzo, there is the lift station at a stone throw.
- Finally, if you decide to descend by the lake (you have seen the picture), you will eventually get to Camillo Giussani hut.
But bear in mind that this is a high elevation and very long route, and the weather can change many times during your climb.
The mentioned rating makes sense only in comparison with other ferrata tours; on some of them you may have no shelters of any kind. Check my Ferrata Possnecker text as an example. Therefore, do not even think of going without a proper weather protection items in your backpack.
Equipment, supplies & accommodation
For this tour I used my Mammut Lithium 40 backpack. The boots were Mammut Sapuen GTX. and I also had all ferrata equipment. This includes a climbing helmet, a harness, and a Y-rope.
I also used a pair of Komperdell trekking poles.
There is no water on the route, so you have to carry it with you. The last place to refill will be at Pie Tofana parking. The food you carry with you, and you may also plan to have a meal at the end of the tour, in the lift station.
This is about Dolomites, so for accommodation make sure you make a reservation in time.
Note that there are no less than four camps very close to the city, one on its north side and three more on the south side. All of them you will find in the map above. I have stayed in them many times, they are with all facilities you need.
Final thoughts
In conclusion, climbing Tofana di Mezzo via Ferrata Lamon offers a challenging yet rewarding experience for those willing to endure a full day in the Dolomites.
The route combines demanding sections with easier stretches, providing climbers with diverse terrain and stunning views.
Starting from the summit of Tofana di Dentro, the initial descent to Forcella Tofana includes steep, exposed passages, giving a strong sense of the mountain’s rugged character. The ascent to Tofana di Mezzo is technically simpler but still requires stamina and caution due to loose rocks and the high altitude.
While the climb is manageable for those with moderate ferrata experience, it demands proper preparation. Adequate equipment, especially a helmet, harness, and sturdy hiking boots, is essential due to the route’s elevation and changing conditions.
The tour’s length and lack of water sources mean that planning supplies carefully is a must. With the possibility of using a lift for descent, climbers have options based on their endurance.
Despite the challenges, Ferrata Lamon’s route promises not only a rewarding summit experience but also a memorable journey through some of the Dolomites’ most captivating and historic landscapes.
Thank you for reading and let me know if you have questions, there is a comment box below. For more texts about mountains in this area please check under the category Italian Alps. Check in particular my text about situations when you fall on a ferrata tour.
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