In case you missed, today is 40 years of Messner’s first solo ascent of Mount Everest, as the first person ever who did such a climb.
This was Messner’s second climb to Mount Everest. Two years before this, he climbed it together with Peter Habeler, on 8 May 1978. They were the first men ever to climb the mountain without the use of supplemental oxygen.
Then two years later, on 20 August 1980, Messner was there again, this time solo and again without supplementary oxygen. The picture below is supposed to be his actual photo from the summit:
This was an unsupported climb, in alpine style and this can be summarized in the following 4 words: carry your stuff yourself. This is one of the reasons, and there are many more, why in my other article I argue that Reinhold Messner is the greatest living man. It would be great to hear what you think about this.
Messner arrived one month before and was acclimatizing by taking his equipment up along the route and living it there. Then before dawn, on August 18th he set off alone from Advance Base on the East Rongbuk Glacier. He had fallen into a crevasse but managed to escape, arrived at the North Col, and continued up the North Ridge.
He then traversed following the route of Finch and Bruce from 1922. He pitched his tent for the seconds time at 26900 feet (8200 m). The third day he entered the Great Couloir and arrived to the summit. Later he descended to the tent, spent the night, and after that, he abandoned his equipment and descended all the wat to Advance Base Camp in one single day.
Things have changed dramatically, and I would say not for the better. Bellow is the picture of Mount Everest as it is in our modern time. In my other article, I was arguing that climbing Mount Everest this way is not ethical. What do you think?
Thank you for reading, there is a comment box below so use it in the case of comments or questions. Have a nice day.
Tobias says
Totally agree. This pictures shows the problem very well. I can’t take anyone serious who uses the support of oxygen to climb to the top.
Unfortunately I can’t say that I’m much better. I did 5 years ago a trip to Peru Choquequirao. Trip was organized by a trekking company. We had 5 guys who were carrying with mulys our tents and food. Looking back, even with the support it was still pretty tough and one day I went on my limits. I don’t think I would have made it without the support. On the other side if I didn’t leave any rubbish and didn’t took a picture for the galary or used oxygen or a muly to ride to the top.
I think it is all about your intentions. Do you want to be on top of the mountain to see the world or do you want that the world sees you.
Jovo says
Hi Tobias, I appreciate the fact that you describe your own episode. I do not think I would ever do this but I cannot be a judge, people will do what they want, I know why I am going to mountains and this is very personal. It happened only a couple of times in the mountains that I took a cable car and I feel embarrassed because of this and cannot forgive myself. Anyway, this is about Messner and it is obvious that we share the same sentiment about him. Thank you for the comment.