Bivacco Malga Malgonera, Valle di San Lucano, Dolomites

The Bivacco Malga Malgonera is the best-equipped shelter I have ever visited, with two wood-burning stoves, 16 beds, an indoor toilet with running water, and even a hot-water shower.

Quick facts

• Bivacco Malga Malgonera elevation: 1580 m (5184 ft).
• Coordinates: 46.3144736, 11.9271667.
• Route type: walk-up.
• Elevation gain from the parking area: 690 m (2264 ft).
• Parking coordinates: 46.2968061, 11.9266953.
• Time needed to reach the bivouac from the Col di Prà parking area: 2 hours.
• Beds: 16, with mattresses, blankets, and pillows.
• Water: yes, but it comes from a spring.
• Heating: two wood-burning stoves.
• Electricity: yes, solar panel.
• Nearest place to buy supplies: Taibon Agordino.
• Useful map: Marmolada – Pelmo – Civetta – Moiazza, Tabacco map number 15. 

What this is about

On the CAI website, it is described as both a mountain hut and a bivouac, while the map below identifies it as Baita Malgonera. Other sources refer to it as Casera Malgonera or Malga Malgonera. These names all refer to the same shelter, which is located in Val di San Lucano, in the municipality of Taibon Agordino.

It belongs to the regional forestry agency (Agenzia Veneta per l’innovazione nel Settore Primario) and is managed under concession by the Ponte di Piave Salgareda section of the CAI (Club Alpino Italiano).

This is a two-story shelter connected to a spring that supplies its water. A photovoltaic system provides emergency lighting at night, while two wood-burning stoves provide heating.

Historically, Malga Malgonera served as a seasonal mountain settlement for alpine dairy farming and cattle grazing. Over time, traditional pastoral activities declined, and the structure was repurposed as a shelter and a base for forestry management and mountaineering.

The historic farmhouse has been fully renovated into a highly functional, two-story, unstaffed alpine shelter. It serves as an important stop along the Alta Via dei Pionieri (High Way of the Pioneers), an 86-kilometer, historically themed trekking route that crosses the wilder sections of the Pale di San Martino range.

From a geological perspective, the area surrounding Malga Malgonera offers a glimpse into the Triassic period. It is a recognized mineral outcrop site known for the distinctive contact between the Middle Triassic Buchenstein/Livinallongo Formation (limestone) and ancient volcanic rocks.

Ancient volcanic activity interacting with the seabed created distinctive geological features. Immediately north of the malga, preserved pillow lava and columnar jointing can be found.

Always open or not?

Before my tour, I read online that the shelter is normally kept locked and that there is a separate emergency bivouac that remains open at all times. I even found the name and phone number of the contact person: Ennio Vidotto, 3478922930.

However, when I arrived, the main building was open, and there was nobody around. I was so impressed by the place that I forgot to check for the emergency bivouac mentioned in those sources. There is another building next to the malga, so if anyone has more information, please share it in the comments below.

I also found these regulations governing the use of the shelter, but they may be outdated, as they date from 2019. In any case, I had not planned to stay overnight, so I did not contact the person in charge.

Access roads and map

The interactive map below shows the following locations:

• Marker 1: Parking area at Col di Prà.
• Marker 2: Bivacco Malga Malgonera.

Zoom in to see more details of the route. Zoom out to see the access roads to the area.

You can drive to Col di Prà (Taibon Agordino, Val di San Lucano), where you will find a parking area. From there, you can begin the climb to the shelter.

If you approach from Gares, allow at least 5 hours. From Cencenighe, the hike to the Gardes fork takes 5 hours. You can also use the shelter as a base for climbing Cima Pape via the Pape fork, a route that takes 5 hours. From Malga Malgonera to Rifugio Rosetta, allow at least 6 hours.

You can also use this bivouac as a stop if you plan to continue to Bivacco Bedin and the summits of Pale di San Lucano.

Route description

If you approach the bivouac from Col di Prà, you will find free parking at the end of the road, next to the last house in the area, which is shown in my photo below.

There are signs in the parking area, as you can see in the photo, so the direction is clear. Simply follow the forest road uphill. On the map, this means you follow the route 761, then 764, and finally 762.

The entire area is beautiful, with waterfalls along the way. You will pass several of them, including the series shown in the photo below.

After about two hours, you will reach a point below the shelter. There are no signs pointing to it, but you can see the building directly from the forest road.

The buildings stand in a pleasant location, and on a clear day, you should have views of Monte Agner on the opposite side of the valley. When I visited, the area was covered in clouds, as you can see in the photo.

Water is available both inside and outside the building. However, as you will see in the video, a notice indicates that it comes from an open spring. It is therefore best to filter the water before drinking it.

Inside, there are several rooms, with the dining area being the largest. There is also a kitchen behind the wall shown in the photo below on the right, where you will find another wood-burning stove for cooking and a sink with tap water, you will see it below. The staircase is visible on the left, and you can also see a back door in the photo. 

The toilet facilities are particularly impressive. The hot-water boiler is wood-fired, which is quite typical of houses in the Italian Alps but unusual for bivouacs. There is also a shower in the corner. I do not know of any other bivouac in the Alps that offers such a level of comfort.

The upper floor offers no fewer than 16 beds, all equipped with mattresses, sheets, and blankets, see the photo below. The floor of the upper level is wood so many more people can sleep inside if necessary. The building in general is pleasant and clean, with no unpleasant smells. 

My tour

For me, this was part of the Via della Dolomia tour, and this bivouac was the first of four along the route. Because it is so close to the parking area, I had not planned to spend the night there. In retrospect, I regret that decision because this is such a great place to stay.

It was raining from the start, see the photo below, but I was not worried. I had no fewer than four bivouacs planned for my tour, along with all the gear I needed for protection against the rain.

I reached Bivacco Malga Malgonera after two hours and did not meet anyone along the way. This remained the case throughout my entire round tour.

After spending about an hour at the bivouac, I continued uphill in the direction of Bivacco Casera Ai Doff. You can find it on the route 762 by zooming in on the map above.

I documented the tour in my video. Take a look:

Gear, water & food

This is a walk-up route, so you do not need any special equipment. Standard hiking boots or hiking shoes are sufficient. I used trekking poles and a day pack. As usual, I also carried a rain poncho, rain pants, and a rain jacket.

If you plan to spend the night there, it is best to bring your own sleeping bag. 

Water is available at a point below the bivouac, so there is no need to carry large quantities from the parking area. It is best to bring a water filter so you can safely refill your bottle along the way.

As for food, you can find shops in the main valley, in Cencenighe Agordino and Taibon Agordino.

Conclusion

Thank you for reading. Let me know if you have questions or comments; there is a comment section below. 

This bivouac, together with more than 140 others, is included in my interactive map available here on the site, see it below. Note that I also have a book titled Dolomites Solo, so have a look if you plan to do some mountaineering tours in the area.